Sydney to Brisbane Solo Bikepacking Tour
This article aims to outline the route and experiences of my solo bikepacking tour in Australia. I kept it concise, still keeping the flow of the journey.
Route (924 km): Sydney, The Entrance, Newcastle, Mungo Brush (Bombah Point), Rainbow Flat, Diamond Head, Port Macquarie, Coffs Harbour, Grafton, Maclean, Ballina, Byron Bay, Tweeds Head, Gold Coast, Brisbane
Day 1: Sydney to The Entrance (90. 37km)
There cannot be a better place than the iconic Opera House to start the tour. I took the 7 am train from Parramatta to Wayard before cycling to the Opera House. Riding via the Harbour Bridge, I followed Google Maps\’ cycling route to Palm Beach ferry station, arriving at 1 pm, an hour later than expected. Caught the next ferry to Ettalong Wharf at 2 pm. I rode to Empire’s Bay just to try my luck, as the last ferry to Davistown was at 2:20 pm. I lost an hour waiting for the ferry as the locals assured me there would be more ferries. Finally, opted to ride a longer route via Bensville, reaching The Entrance by 6:30 pm, where I stayed with a lovely Couchsurfing host couple.
Day 2: The Entrance to Newcastle (78.66 km)
Started my day at 7:15 am with a thick slice of fruit bread. Feeling hungry, I stopped at Budgewoi village for breakfast at 9:30. Following Google Maps, I traversed roads through woods and steep elevations, eventually finding myself on a gravel road with a direction to take a walking trail to Moonee Beach. After navigating the trail to a village, I encountered more steep elevations, opting to walk most of them, before transitioning to the Old Pacific Highway in search of flatter terrain. Eventually, I connected to the Fernleigh bike track, a scenic rail trail converted from an old railway track. Arriving in Newcastle, I headed to Camp Shortland, mistaking it for a campsite, only to discover it was a park. After failed attempts to contact caravan parks and fully booked hostels, I reluctantly reserved a hotel room for the night.
Day 3: Newcastle (12.08 km)
Feeling dehydrated and tired I stayed an extra day in Newcastle and took a morning ride to the scenic Memorial Walk trail. Turned out to be a good decision as the day was very hot.
Day 4: Newcastle to Mungo Brush, Bombah Point (68.43 km)
Boarded the 6:15 am ferry from Queens Warf to Stockton, then headed down Nelson Bay road towards Williamtown. Riding towards Nelson Bay, detour to the less crowded Marsh road, paralleling Tilligerry Creek. Skipped breakfast to catch the 11 am ferry from Nelson Bay, arriving by 10 am to wait. Booked the 11:30 am ferry, not listed online, a cheaper option offering one-way tickets. Enjoyed the lively beach atmosphere while waiting. After an hour-long ferry ride to Tea Garden, lunched and biked through the woods to Myall National Park. Need to cancel the booked stay at a Holiday Park, as the Bombah Point ferry was out of service. I stayed at the vacant emergency site in nearby \’The Wells Campground\’ of NSW National Park. This campsite has a toilet facility, but no drinking water, no electricity and no bathing. Luckily, a camper family generously provided food, water, and charging. An incredible experience staying in the woods, with a refreshing dip in adjacent White Tree Bay.
Day 5: Mungo Brush (0 km)
As I was preparing to depart, Graham, a fellow camper, noticed an issue with my front wheel – a bulging and deformed tire. Recognizing that riding further wasn’t feasible, I searched for the nearest Brompton dealer and found one in Newcastle with the required tire in stock. Graham generously offered me a lift, insisting on accompanying me and running some errands on the way. By evening, we returned with the replaced tire. Along the journey, I picked up dinner and water, ultimately deciding to extend my stay at the campground for an extra night. No regret, it’s a place to stay forever.
Day 6: Mungo Brush to Rainbow Flat (85.49 km)
Venturing solo through the 21 km of unpaved gravel roads of Old Gibber’s Trail and Mining Road Trail, I encountered no other soul, as the trail was restricted solely for bikers and walkers. Note the entrance barrier was closed, but you are allowed to enter from the narrow passage on the corner. Following The Lakes Way road, which meandered alongside serene lakes, I arrived at Forster-Tuncurry. Continuing along the same road to Rainbow Flat, I booked a campsite off the Pacific Highway. The road recommended by Google Maps to connect The Lakes Way to the Pacific Highway proved to be subpar, though thankfully not very lengthy. It was a picturesque evening, illuminated by the full moon.
Day 7: Rainbow flat to Diamond Head, Crowdy Bay National Park (58.28 km)
I started my day with my phone charged to 75%. Knowing it would be scorching, with temperatures reaching 38°C, I opted for the Pacific Highway to ride swiftly and cover maximum ground in the morning. However, the intense heat forced me to halt just an hour later. After a McDonald’s breakfast, I resumed on the highway, but the cement road radiated unbearable heat. I diverted towards Coralville to escape it. A 20-minute break at a fuel station provided relief with air conditioning and Gatorade. The road eventually turned to gravel, slowing me down but reducing the heat. With riding becoming challenging, I sought a campsite in Diamond Head, still 10 km away. Reaching there, I rested under a tree for an hour before setting up camp. The campground offered shower facilities, but no electricity or drinking water. As evening descended, the temperature became cooler and pleasant. It was delightful to spot a monitor lizards and kangaroos hopping nearby.
Day 8: Diamond Head to Port Macquarie (47.4 km)
Settling into a natural retreat at a campground in the national park, I faced the challenge of no food and drinking water supplies. With only half a liter of water and two nutrition bars left, I embarked on my day without breakfast or even a sip of water. Fortunately, after 12 kilometers, I stumbled upon a restaurant. With temperatures expected to soar to 40°C, and yesterday’s experience teaching me the harsh reality of riding under the blazing sun, I opted for a shorter ride to Port Macquarie, arriving by noon. There, I stayed with an Indian Couchsurfing host. We cooked up an Indian meal, and in the evening, explored the city and enjoyed a refreshing swim at the beach.
Day 9: Port Macquarie to Coffs Harbour (0 km)
With the weather forecast predicting torrential rain and thunderstorms, I reconsidered cycling for the day. Opting to conserve a day, I chose to take a bus to Coffs Harbour. However, I regretted the decision as the day turned out to be pleasantly drizzling with nice weather. Upon arrival, I found my bike’s tire flat, forcing me to walk 4 km to the hostel. After reaching the hostel, I fixed the flat and later went for a walk. Despite calling it an early night, I struggled to sleep due to loud music from the nearby pub.
Day 10: Coffs Harbour to Grafton (86.03km)
Feeling frustrated with the bike tire still flat, I took the time to fix it again, this time removing the wheel and inspecting it thoroughly. I also gave the bike a quick clean and greased the chain. Setting off by quarter to 10, I encountered a couple of early steep elevations. Opting to continue on the highway, I made a stop at the historical first Gurudwara of Australia in Woolgoolga. After prayers, I enjoyed a delicious langar there. Ignoring Google Maps\’ directions, I continued on the highway in hot and humid weather, facing a few steep elevations near Dirty Creek, but the rest of the journey was smooth. Arriving in Grafton, I stayed at a campsite, positioning my tent under a shed due to the forecasted rain. Unfortunately, the rain still disrupted my sleep. This campsite has electricity, but of course I opted for a non-powered site.
Day 11: Grafton to Maclean (50.12 km)
Unable to charge my mobile, I stopped at McDonald’s for a couple of hours to charge it and grabbed breakfast. Continuing on Big River Road, the narrow shoulder made me uneasy when long vehicles passed. Despite Google Maps suggesting detours, I stuck to this road as the detours eventually merged with this road. The day remained cloudy and not overly hot, but strong headwinds left me drenched in sweat. I moved to the wider shoulder of Pacific Highway when I got to the exit. By the time I reached Maclean, I was completely exhausted. Unable to find a campsite or hostel, I opted for a hotel. Maclean charmed me with its quaint European-style buildings, and even at 6 pm, the roads were deserted. Exhausted from two days of sleep deprivation, I crashed early for the night.
Day 12: Maclean to Ballina (101.61 km)
The day offered ideal riding conditions with flat roads and pleasant weather. I followed the Pacific Highway all the way to the end. Forgetting to book a camping site before 6 pm, I ended up staying in a hotel once again. I rode to the river mouth known as North Wall, where a cycling/walking trail extends a few kilometers into the sea. It was a memorable ride, and I was thrilled to reach the milestone of 100 km.
Day 13 & 14: Ballina to Byron Bay (44.47)
Byron Bay was just a short distance from Ballina. Following the coastal road, I enjoyed breathtaking panoramic views of the vast ocean. Upon arrival, I headed straight to the beach and the iconic Byron Bay lighthouse. The view of the pristine white lighthouse against the backdrop of the vast blue sea was truly remarkable. This spot marks the easterly point of Australia. On the first day, I stayed with a Couchsurfing host and decided to extend my stay for an additional day at a hostel to absorb the Byron vibes.
Day 15: Byron Bay to Banora Point (southern suburb of Gold Coast) (66.28 km)
After an initial stretch on the highway, I opted for the coastal road known as Tweeds Valley Road, where the views were simply breathtaking. Riding amidst the woods parallel to the beach, I later enjoyed clear, beautiful vistas of the deep blue sea. I made multiple small stops along the way to soak in the scenery, passing through villages like Portsville, Hastings Head, and Kingscliffs, and finally reached Banora Point. I stayed with a Warmshowers host in their beautiful home. They were fellow cyclists, and I enjoyed listening to their travel stories. They also took me on a city tour.
Day 16: Banora Point to Gold Coast (40.3 km)
A delightful, scenic ride along the coast made for an enjoyable journey. The highlight was crossing the state border, where the timezone changed. Starting my ride at 8:15 am, I found myself back in time at 7:50 am upon crossing the border. I settled into a hostel and explored the vibrant atmosphere of Surfers Paradise, known for its bustling crowds and lively night market.
Day 17: Gold Coast to Brisbane (94.69 km)
Eager to reach Brisbane quickly, I initially planned to stick to the highway, only to find cyclists weren’t allowed on that stretch. Instead, I followed the cycle path Veloway 1 (V1), which mostly paralleled the highway. The enormity of both cities was striking, making it feel like the urban landscape stretched endlessly. About 22 km to Brisbane, I encountered a newly built cycling track, which was superb. Upon reaching Brisbane, my intention to conclude my journey at Story Bridge was thwarted by road closures for construction. Nonetheless, crossing the Brisbane River via cycling/walking bridges was enjoyable. I stayed with a delightful Warmshowers host couple, and the following day, I explored Southbank and Westend with a friend, enjoying a leisurely walk.
This journey holds a special place in my heart as it marks my first real bike-packing tour, for which I acquired camping gear. It was a thrilling experience as I camped in the wild for the first time, embracing the beauty of nature. I mixed inner roads and coastal routes for peaceful scenic rides, with rides on highways for speed. Additionally, I explored the wonderful community of Couchsurfing and Warmshowers, adding enriching experiences to my adventure.
PS:
- Camping gear became a necessity — I got mine second-hand on Facebook Marketplace. Hotels cost at least AUD 100, while campsites were just AUD 15–35 pre night.
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