A Beginner’s Adventure
Visited: Oct-Nov 2023
This journey was with my brother, a complete newbie to cycling. Instead of hitting just tourist spots, I wanted him to experience the rhythm of slow travel — cruising through back roads, taking in the countryside, exploring local culture, savoring authentic cuisines, and connecting with people. As he was new to riding, with just 15 days of practice, I kept it flexible, avoiding any pressure or packed schedules.
Day 1: Colombo Airport to Negombo Lagoon (22.66 km)
After landing at Colombo International Airport, we withdrew some cash, unpacked, and assembled our bikes and left the cardboard boxes behind at the airport. It took longer than expected, to start riding to our hotel on the peninsula between the lagoon and the Indian Ocean. We had hoped to catch the sunset, but the rain caught us halfway, forcing a stop at a bakery instead.
Day 2: Negombo to Divulapitiya (37.87 km)
The lagoon sunrise was a serene start, with flocks of birds gracing the skies. After a breakfast of string hoppers and dhal curry, we headed out, visiting St. Mary Magdalene’s Church, Dungalpitiya Beach, and the Mother of Purification Church — Pitipana. We even stopped by a fish market near the Victoria Memorial Clock Tower, an unexpected highlight. Angurukaramulla Temple (Bodhirajaramaya) marked our first temple visit. Rain met us again in the evening, so we called it a day at Divulapitiya.
Day 3: Divulapitiya to Kuruengala (50.12 km)
The day began along the lush Ekala-Kotadeniyawa road lined with coconut trees. By noon, the heat became intense, and an afternoon shower made the humidity even worse. We found a resort just outside Kurunegala to stay, missing the chance to explore due to heavy evening rain.
Day 4: Kurunegala to Ibbagamuwa (18 km)
We explored the Elephant Rock (Athugala), a colossal monolith resembling a crouching elephant. A cab took us up to Athugala Vihara temple, which boasts an 88-foot Buddha statue and panoramic views over the city. Later, we stayed at a homestay facing Batalagoda Tank in Ibbagamuwa. Dinner at Hela Bhojun Hala, a traditional food court, was a highlight, offering authentic Sri Lankan dishes prepared by local women — an empowerment project by the Ministry of Agriculture.
Day 5: Kurunegala to Dambulla (46.39 km)
We started early to beat the heat, stopping at Hela Bhojun for breakfast, where we also tried Kola Kanda, a delicious local herbal drink. The journey took us through lush paddy fields and the forested Humbulugala forest, with a bit of an ascent. In Dambulla, we explored the Cave Temple — Sri Lanka’s largest and best-preserved, filled with ancient Buddha statues and vibrant murals.
Day 6: Sigiriya
Renting a scooter, we visited Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site, also believed to be Ravana’s palace. After a steep steps climb up the 370-meter rock, the summit rewarded us with breathtaking views. A lunch buffet at Sakura Restaurant completed the day.
Day 7: Dambulla to Matale (47.33 km)
We started early, riding through narrow, bumpy roads. Along the way, we visited the ancient Nalanda Gedige, an 8th–10th century temple and the geographic center of Sri Lanka. Approaching the mountains, the route featured elevations and descents that took us up 540 meters in total.
Day 8: Matale to Kandy (by bus)
After visiting the Sri Muthumari Amman Kovil, a Tamil Hindu temple, we took a bus to Kandy to avoid the strenuous mountain climb. The bus allowed us to load our bikes in the back for a small fee. Once in Kandy, we booked a 3 a.m. train to Nanu Oya (nearest station to Nuwara Eliya) — the only train allowing bikes. Though we were advised to get a permit from the municipal council, no one checked for it. We also visited Sri Dalada Maligawa, the sacred tooth relic temple housing Buddha’s canine tooth, and hopped around a few well-known restaurants.
Day 9: Kandy to Nuwara Eliya (by train + 8.46 km ride)
The 3 a.m. train was an unforgettable experience not to be missed in Sri Lanka. The most scenic stretch runs from Kandy to Ella, but we planned to hop off at Nanu Oya (Nuwara Eliya) and cycle to Ella from there. After one of the world’s most breathtaking train rides, we climbed a steep 300m to reach Nuwara Eliya, passing through tea estates nestled in lush landscapes. Torrential rains forced several pit stops, the interesting one was the Sri Lanka Tea Board’s Sales Center, where the cafe overlooks a stunning tea estate.
Day 10 & 11: Nuwara Eliya (local tour)
Exploring Sri Lanka’s highest town, we stayed at The Firs, the historic holiday home of Sri Lanka’s first president. We still fondly remember Cafe Noshers — a cozy spot, for serving the most delicious Western food in Sri Lanka. Unfortunately, a tire burst forced me to return to Kandy for a replacement.
Day 11: Nuwara Eliya to Ella (38.51 km + rest by Auto Rickshaw-TukTuk)
We started early, biking through foggy mountain roads and stopping at the Seetha Amman Temple, associated with the Ramayana’s Ashok Vatika, but skipped the Hakgala botanical park on the way. Heavy rains forced us to take a TukTuk, which humorously tipped over while climbing to our homestay in Ella. We were safe, thankfully, and enjoyed our stay in the lively town. The Nine Arches Bridge, a colonial-era railway bridge, and the Ella Rock viewpoint are must-visit spots.
Day 12: Ella to Thanamalwila (64.62 km)
As we crossed Ella, Ella Rock loomed in the clouds. We took a pit stop at Ravana Falls, a majestic waterfall where Ravana is said to have bathed. The first 13–15 km featured a steep descent back to the plains and drier weather. Along the way, we passed through the buffer zone of Yala National Park, spotting a couple of wild elephants, but we opted to skip the safari.
Day 13: Thanamalwila to Hambantota (45.31 km)
After a delicious traditional buffet brunch at Gamigedara Restaurant, we set off for Hambantota. A highlight was crossing the Wirawila Lake road, bordered by water on both sides. We aimed to cool off at Eagle’s Cafe, managed by the Air Force, but it was closed for maintenance, leaving behind a few neglected demonstration planes. We crossed the wetlands of Bundala National Park, spotting minimal flora and fauna. Before reaching Hambantota, we passed large salt pans and storage units. The temperature soared as we neared the coast, and, as usual, heavy evening rain greeted us.
Day 14: Hambantota to Tangalle (47.76 km)
We started late, around 9 AM, which proved costly as the already hot dry region became unbearable by 11 AM. After a break at Ambalantota, we resumed at 2:30 PM. Although we expected flat terrain, the coastal road was rolling. By evening, the weather improved, and we arrived in Tangalle just before dark, leaving us to enjoy the beach only in the morning.
Day 15: Tangalle to Matara (35.44 km)
We stopped at the Devinuwara Uthpalawanna Sri Vishnu Maha Dewalaya temple to admire a tall Buddha statue. The evening ride along the sea-facing road provided stunning panoramic views of the deep blue ocean. Our stay was in a heritage cottage near Matara beach, overlooking Paravi Duwa Temple, situated on a small island.
Day 16: Matara to Weligama (16.09 km)
We started early at a quarter to 6 AM to maximize our time in Weligama, home to one of Sri Lanka’s best beaches and a surfing paradise. We tried surfing for the first time and were thrilled by the long waves rolling in.
Day 17 & 18: Weligama to Galle (31.76 km)
Starting around 2 PM for the short distance to Galle, we stopped at a turtle hatchery, but it felt lacking with only a few turtles. We also observed stilt fishing at Koggala Beach. Upon reaching Galle, the fort glowed golden in the dark, transporting us to Europe with its heritage architecture. We stayed in a Dutch heritage house inside the fort and enjoyed a guided walking tour, visiting the Japanese Peace Pagoda on Rummasala Hill and the nearby Hanuman Temple. Legend has it that a fragment of a mountain dropped here while Hanuman was flying, making this hill rich in biodiversity — a stark contrast to the surrounding area. The town is called Unawatuna, meaning “here it fell.”
Day 19 to 23: Galle to Kalutara (93.26 km)
Filled with coastal adventures, including quick stops at stunning beaches. In Hikkaduwa, we snorkeled to see turtles, followed by a day in Kosgoda. We enjoyed more beach hopping in Bentota, where we explored a traditional mask factory. On our way to Kalutara, we stopped at several temples, including Wanawasa Royal Temple and Kande Vihara Beruwala. In Kalutara, we marveled at the iconic Kalutara Bodhiya, a beautiful Buddhist temple, before catching the Cricket World Cup match between India and Australia, which ended in a disappointing loss for India.
Day 24 to 27: Kalutara to Colombo (62.64 km)
In Colombo, we explored attractions like Gangaramaya Temple, Town Hall, Lotus Tower, Galle Face, and the Pettah floating market. One day was spent at Pettah Market searching for card boxes for our bikes. Finally, it was time to say goodbye to Sri Lanka.
Over all, my brother discovered a new companion — the bicycle — and an exhilarating way to travel and explore the world. Our journey through Sri Lanka wasn’t just about the destinations; it was about the bonds we formed, the flavors we savored, and the breathtaking landscapes we cycled through. I’m grateful we embraced this adventure, allowing us to slow down, connect with the local culture, and create unforgettable memories.
PS: Cargill grocery stores were everywhere, making our lives easier. Our meals were half Sri Lankan and half from P&S Bakery, Indian restaurants, and Western fast food, so we didn’t miss our usual flavors. The roads were mostly narrow but in good condition, and the locals were incredibly supportive. While we could have easily shortened the trip by seven days, we preferred a slower pace to explore the coastal attractions.
